Thursday 29 November 2012

Winter- its oops and dawns.


The grandeur of the night sky, I wrote about a few weeks back, is an incomplete truth. When the night slips away and a serene moment of absolute silence grips the whole place at dawn, the sky becomes such a fine cloak to all the sleepy inhabitants beneath it. Since the sun chooses to say "Hello" a little  later these days, with my wake up alarm still stubbornly stuck at 6am, I get to observe the beautiful twilight in the morning. The stars are still around, a few of them at their shining best. The clouds of white are blurry lines across a black-becoming-blue sky. There are tinges of orange and crimson peeking at the corners of the cloak. This, this one moment, before even the birds begin to chirp, is the pinnacle of the grandeur.

Sesame fields set against the Aravalli hills on a foggy morning.

 It is SO difficult to prop oneself out of the bed from beneath the warm and cozy blanket when the air outside is a chill six degrees. However, the minute I soak in that image from my backyard, the laziness astonishingly makes way for rejuvenation. Add to this beautiful scene, the calm trees and the earlier brown-then-green-now yellow sesame fields. I stare at a postcard every morning. In silence.
There is a message that is written all across the card, unseen to many, but it eggs me to do good that day. Then gradually the confident orange strides in, the last star manages to give a wink before fading out and I splash my face with cold water. My fingers and face freeze from the rude shock, it is time I shifted to using the neem twig toothbrush, I decide. (The village folks have their indigenous and healthy ways to conserve water, keep themselves warm and healthy- I make a mental note.) 

All inspired and thoroughly awake, I look forward to the day's events. As is with everything else, there are only two things that could happen, things could either go uphill from there or downhill. The first thing that makes me lose that spring in my step is definitely the morning newspaper. In specific, the disappointment with what is happening at the Parliament. The winter session is a week old as of today. The number of full working days out of five- zero, zilch, shunya. In deep thought as I sip on the garam chai, I wonder about our leaders and the people who choose them. Mirroring the highest house of democracy- the Parliament- the Haryana state too holds winter Gram Sabhas. Starting from November 27th the slew of Gram Sabhas are scheduled till December 15th.

Slightly digressing, I should describe here an imagery I had of the Panchayat. Blame my upbringing, surroundings or the company that I keep, I have been nurtured on movies- Tamil, English and Hindi. Anybody who has even a narrow past with Tamil movies maybe familiar with the many Panchayat scenes that the industry throws at us. Gripped in all anxiety, fear and curiosity motley villagers gather under the shade of a huge (gigantic, in fact) Banyan/Peepal tree. The 'Nattamai' of course is the ever-rich dynastic hero/father of the hero (why never a woman?!). Only he sits on an antique chair, of maybe the most expensive teak, embellished complete with lions' heads at the arm rests. He is, quite naturally, surrounded by cronies/other powerful men, whose only work in their entire lives (as we see through the movie) is to nod in agreement or echo His Highness' words. Then, there will invariably be the one accountant/bodyguard/secretary/younamewhat ready with a book/spittoon/book again/younamewhat by the side of the all-powerful Nattamai. After patiently listening to both sides of the case ( Why is it always a case, never a discussion or meeting?!) a beatific Nattamai is now shown with lines so deep on his forehead, the villagers- I am surprised- do not get out their tilling equipment! This moment is notoriously accompanied by a background score that peaks towards the end, after which, the Nattamai thunders with his earth-shaking decision. The consultant-cronies and villagers sundry express shock/consent/satisfaction/glee depending on whether they are paid well/crony/averagely paid/crony again. Anyway, nobody opposes it. After zooming in and out on all their reactions, the scene..

Since Google failed me in providing you with an authentic Nattamai scene, I present to you a close substitute.

 cuts to Haryana, November 27th 2012. First stop is at the Rewari Block Development and Panchayat Office. Sunny morning, a cluster of chairs is placed outside the office. The officers plonked on them seem at utmost leisure, an honourable mention must go to a lady who was knitting a sweater. It is 11 in the morning, there are half a dozen empty tea-cups by the legs of the chairs already. Four of them seem to be keenly discussing the upcoming wedding of the Block Development Officer's son.  Nobody could provide the Gram Sabha schedule for the villages in the block, that I asked for. Worse, nobody was even interested. They had to be at one meeting each, by call of duty. When the winter sun beckons, they care only to crack open groundnuts. So the 11 o'clock Gram Sabha session was "washed out" in sooo many villages! 

2 o'clock. I am seated in the temple premises of Sundroj. The Gram Sabha should be underway any minute. Half an hour later there are 9 people on the temple floor- five women (from SCRIA's sangathans) and four other men. Not even all the Panch turn up. The meeting starts at 2.35 pm. The new Panchayat Secretary is initially seated on a chair (giving all the airs of being the boss, contrary to her role as the Government Servant) and the men are seated on a mat, facing away. Then bogged down by our gaze, the Secretary shifted to the durrie, while the Sarpanch still sat stylishly cross-legged on a chair. (The Gram Sabha's egalitarian dictum is that everybody is seated on the same level.)  The women are huddled together and worrying about their buffaloes. No kidding. The only thing that thundered here was the wind against the drying Peepal tree. So feeble was this meeting, no discussion on development activities, no discussion on social evils, nothing! I cursed those movie directors who had spun a dramatic yarn around a somber proceeding.


(L to R) Panchayat Secretary (with register), Sarpanch, one of the five women.


Sarpanch striking a pose.

Are we ever surprised at a child taking to its parent? Same goes here. Parliament does not function. Panchayat does not function. The cat on the temple's parapet was more active than the villagers who turned up. There was not a buzz in the village about the Sabha. The announcement was made the previous night at 8pm after the villagers had shut their homes to the outside world. (The rule states that the announcement be made at least 15 days in advance.) My co-fellows in Odisha narrated many incidents of Palli (ward) Sabhas where there were huge gatherings and mad chaos to demand answers regarding development. Maybe, as one of my co-workers at SCRIA pointed out, Haryana has comparatively less incidence of poverty and hence the people do not bother to fight for their rights, just as much. Turning up on the pitch counts, I retort. Oops, that is simply asking too much!

I am expecting more of these instances in the coming days..

It simply nailed the purpose behind my work, more than ever. Strengthening Gram Sabhas and the 3-tier Panchayati Raj system is going to be a tough journey. However, when the foundation of self-governance is well-established, the democracy functions well by default. When all these India-China debates come up, my mind always chooses to pick the one trump card India has got. We are a democracy. That is the brahmastra in our armoury. If the warriors are asleep, what power has the missile got? If the citizen remains inactive, it translates to the breaking down of "participatory democracy". The missile too rusts, as it rests. Slowly digesting the events of the day as I trudged my way back to Khori, I saw the sun set behind the Aravalli hills. The sesame fields were gracefully acknowledging the passing breeze. Man, woman, bird and animal were all returning to their homes. The day's activities leave dust and restlessness in the air. There is a lot of dust and it has to settle. The exhaustion of the day is only momentary. As the world around me wound itself down, I reminded myself that dusk is only an earlier dawn. Just as grand as ever.

Tomorrow's another day. May our democracy prosper, I pray.

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